I once had a Piaggio Zip until, on 27th September 2007 it was stolen and smashed for the hell of it.

I now have purchased a Huoniao HN125-8 custom cruiser. I was a little apprehensive given the low price of this bike, but as I only got a third of the purchase price for my 4 year old Zip, I had to compromise on the replacement. I scoured eBay for a cheap second-hand bike when, way back on page 7 I found one these Huoniao HN125-8 bikes. I was interested but sceptical because of the price. after a google search & an email I placed the order. Now just to wait for the 48 hour delivery.

To my surprise the bike was at my local distribution hub ready for delivery the next day !! but alas I was not ready for it.  Delivery was made. It was in a metal frame in a box, which was on a pallet.

Bike On Pallet

After a little struggle, the bike alone weighs 140Kg, I made it through to the garden & began to unwrap it. There was adequate wrapping & protection for the journey that it had made. The frame that secured it so that it couldn't move was a little unforgiving & required a little persuasion to release the bike. But after 10 or 15 minutes I had access to start assembly.

Bike UnwrappedThere were no instructions included, but it is blatantly obvious that the handlebars are for steering & the wheels touch the road & of course you'll need a battery to provide electricity. Everything was straight forward. After adding a little fuel I attempted to start it & as you'd expect, it fired as soon as the fuel got through. A little adjustment was required to the idle speed & clutch cable & these instructions are in the user guide. I have made a .pdf copy of the HN125-8 owners manual which can be downloaded >> HERE <<.

A little clean later & after being wheeled into the garage I now have an assembled and running Huoniao HN125-8.

HN125-8 Assembled in garage
There are some things to bear in mind if you buy one of these. You insurance company probably wont of heard of Huoniao and wont insure it. I used Rampdale and they seem quite competent. You will need insurance to register it and there is a £15 admin charge for insuring a chassis number. There is an additional £65 when you register, £50 for the registration and £15 for your tax disc.

My Huoniao HN125-8 's speedo is in Mph but the Odometer (mileometer) reads in Kilometres? Odd?

All in all though, generally a pleasurable experience.

When things go bad.....

Now I agree that this is not the average experience and generally I tend to get all the sh*t.

As you may of established I live in Lincoln. My first major journey was to Thetford (91 miles). I could have gone in the car, but I decided that the bike needed running in. So, 40Mph all the way. It is quite easy to maintain this speed at about 5000rpm. It was quite cold so I wrapped up and took a nice steady run until..... at Kings Lynn roundabout on the A10 - A47 interchange I had to stop at the traffic lights. It stalled. The bugger refused to re-start. I pushed it under the bridge to a small cutting an sat with it for about 25 minutes. There was a strong smell of fuel but I failed to find where it was coming from. Trying every couple of minutes to see if it would start, finally, ignition, idle speed is about 4500rpm? very strange? but it is running. So, helmet and gloves on and continue on my journey. Once I arrived I adjusted the idle speed down to about 1600rpm and everything was fine. This continued for the return journey, although I did run it at about 45mph on the way back. This is just a teething problem I thought....

On 17th November I was out visiting friends and all had been well. I started on my return journey when, after about 2 miles, there is no power and my HN125-8 grinds to a halt. Try as I might the bugger refused to start. So, from previous experience I waited and tried to start. Alas this was an endless task. Now the Lincolnshire Wolds aren't the flattest place on earth, so I used some modern technology to phone for assistance. Being some 40 miles from home this took about an hour. I was recovered and a email put in to LS Imports . I enclosed pictures of the carburettor which apparently had fuel leaking out of it.

Carburettor showing fuel leaking

LS Imports sent me a new carburettor next day, which would have been 20th November. It arrived on 22nd November with a 20th date stamp on it !! I fitted this component and to my surprise it made no difference at all. Being fairly mechanically minded and working in the car industry for 20 years gives a good insight. I have never seen a working carburettor just stop with no warning. I emailed LS Imports again telling them that the carb had made no difference only to be told it must be the CDI unit. It would be sent next day. Should be Saturday 24th November. A nice jiffy bag arrived on 26th November with a new CDI unit and a new coil. I popped them on (the CDI unit is under the seat) and............................. no change.

Position of CDI unit

I did a little checking myself and found that the old CDI unit was making an erratic spark with both the new and the old coils but the new CDI unit made no spark with either. I phoned LS Imports to tell them of my findings. "Sounds like your side stand switch" I was told. I insisted that I had run some checks on it and the new CDI unit was most defiantly defective. Eventually I persuaded them to send me another, which arrived on 28th November. This is it I thought, I'll have a decent spark and I'll be off again. I was so wrong. Yes the spark was now quite decent but still refused to start. I continued to check around the bike for anything that may cause this problem. Interestingly, the new carb was also damp with fuel. On further investigation I found a tiny pin hole in the fuel line, just above the inlet to the carburettor, which was barely visible from the right side (foot brake side). Side cutters out and off with the bottom inch of hose. Fixed !. I took off the new carburettor, reassembled and put on the old. I knew that it had been running on the old one before it stopped. Once fitted back together, no change. On 1st December I had some assistance from the Father-in-law, he knows his stuff. After much tinkering and dis-assembly, a multimeter check shows a open circuit on the stator. He suggests that a rectifier may also be in order. Another email to LS Imports on Sunday 2nd December which has a quick response to tell me the replacement parts will be dispatched on Monday 3rd. Another email from me to ask what has happened on 5th December reveals that they haven't sent them. I did phone land line and mobile, also attempted to fax, but there was no response from any of these.

Finally on Friday 7th December the parcel arrives.

Eagerly I open the box to find a old and oily housing containing the stator and ignition pick-up. Wrapped in the bottom of the box is the rectifier which was covered in road dirt. NICE !!. I cleaned them up and removed the stator from the housing, put the stator in my housing and fitted the bike back together. Wow the spark is the biggest that I've seen it, but alas, it still refuses to start. I spent Saturday 8th morning setting up the carb and.................................. we have ignition. Right'o left it running on fast idle (I turned the idle speed screw) about 3000rpm for two hours. It was a bit lumpy but reasonable. In the afternoon out I went. 4 miles down the road, stopped and it refused to start. I pushed it home, it is heavy. After a quick check I determined there was no fuel, so off with the old carb and back on with the new. A little setting up later and adding an in-line fuel filter..............

Inline fuel filter

I now appear to have a reliable bike. Only took 22 days !!

At this time of year there is a lot of dirt off the roads. Lots of this dirt gets on the bike. On Wednesday 12th December I decided to wash off this dirt. Remarkable the difference a wash makes. Now off to pick up the nippa from school. The bugger refuses to start. Cranking with no spark? very strange. I checked all the connectors and all appeared fine, now I have a weak spark. Could this be the CDI unit again? With the battery charger connected I persevere. I called the wife to collect the nippa, I just weren't gonna make it !!

I made coffee and came back for another go, still will not start. Checked the fuel, present. mmm. Interesting. After about an hour and a half, as if by magic, it fires !! YAHOO !! it is running. Some 10 - 15 seconds later it stops, refusing to start. But it was just running? very strange. More coffee. I leave it charging for 20 mins and then return. Switch on the ignition, check fuel is on, choke on half, press start button and it starts immediately and continues to run. Leaving it to warm up, more coffee. 15 mins it has been running, the choke is off and all is very hot. Coat and helmet on, off we go. 15 miles later, not a blip, as perfect as could be !! very strange.

All is well until, on 19th December another wash, and............ the bugger refuses to start. Now this just can't be coincidence. First things first, side cover off and connect battery charger, I'm gonna need it. Same old symptoms, cranking with no spark, I checked all the connectors again and all appeared fine, now I have a weak spark. What is going on? I remember reading on the Chinese Bike Forum that the side stand switch can give trouble similar to this so, off for a quick read and back to the switch. I got a small length of wire and wedged it in to the plug bridging the 2 red colour wires. Switch on the ignition, check fuel is on, choke on half, press start button and it starts immediately and continues to run. I removed the wire. Stopped immediately. Problem found. After some fiddling around I managed to get the plug to where I could work on it. I soldered a link between the 2 red coloured wires and re-fed the plug under the bike. After starting the bike I pushed the plug together and again it stopped immediately. So now the plug resides behind the engine next to the air box.

Plug behind air box

I removed the switch, it was dirty !

Side Stand Switch

Side Stand Switch

Side Stand Switch

So I took it apart to see what was inside. Now it is very simple. The plunger pushes a carrier against a spring. In the carrier is a metal plate with 3 raised areas to meet on  the contact plate, where the wires are attached. The plate moves back and forth to make and/or break contact ! That's it !

 Switch Innards

1 - Metal plate in carrier.

2 - Green wire attaches here

3 - Black wire attaches here

4 - Red coloured wire attaches here

5 - Red coloured wire attaches here

6 - No connection

It all looks in order, I didn't clean the inside before I took the pictures. I just don't understand why it doesn't work.











15th January 2008, over night there had been significant rainfall leaving large amounts of standing water. Unfortunately on my way to work, at 5.30am I found a large puddle. some half mile later, all stop. As usual, the bike refused to restart. Luckily, or maybe not, I'd made it to the gate at work. I parked up and went to work. Lunch time arrived, so I decided that I would check it out. Key in, press start button, fires first time !! While checking round I can hear a fizzing sound, checking further, it is the plug that connects to the side stand switch. I got hold of it and could feel high voltage passing through it. There was much water and road debris on it so WD40 all over it to get home and then to fix the problem. At home I removed the 2 wires that I had left before.

Corroded Plug

New Position Of Plug

They were in a state. After a clean I packed the plug with battery terminal grease and re positioned the plug under the seat. I had also noticed that corrosion had started on the terminals to the handlebar switches, so these were greased too. The brake leaver had become stiff, I took it off and after examination this was also due to corrosion. I cleaned it up so it was like new and applied a liberal amount of grease to it. Now it is like new too. Do try to protect exposed moving  and electrical parts with a water resistant grease as this will also prolong the life of the bike.

3rd April 2008. I was on my way home from work when, off came the chain . Now I'd adjusted this up because it had become slack only 3 weeks before. With a loud clatter and sudden engine stop I rolled to a halt. I didn't know what it was at first, but the chain was a dead give away !  I threaded it back onto the sprockets. But no starter. Of course it was in gear. From neutral it started straight away. I rode home slowly as the chain was dragging along the frame? Further inspection showed me that I had a chunk missing out of the cover that goes over the front sprocket. Luckily this is not visible from outside and such force from the chain had pulled the left-hand-side of the wheel forward about half inch. I adjusted it all up and put it back together. I was lucky all is fine.

I knew that the chain had to be adjusted again, but I was waiting until the weekend. These things need attention and can't be put off. Something to remember for the future.

12th April 2008. First oil change. Not actually the first because I changed it at 300K after I'd run it in. Mileage 1800Mi / 3000K. Quite straight forward. 17mm sump nut in the middle of the sump drains the oil. It didn't appear to be particularly dirty, a kind of dark brown colour. Maybe this is a mixture of carbon and clutch lining?   23mm socket was required to get to the oil filter. Again no debris to speak of, quite clean actually. I blasted the filter with brake cleaner to be sure and re-inserted it. Now the book says that 1 litre is required. But full on the dipstick is 850- 900 ml? strange?   There is a method to measuring the oil level too, which is in the CG125 Haynes manual. This is to measure the oil with the dipstick perched at the very end of the thread (not screwed in). This may account for the excess oil in the casing on the other side when I changed the oil first time as I just tipped in 1 litre.

Measuring Position Of Dipstick


Thursday 1st May. I arrived at work and while parking my Huoniao I noticed that the rear light was off, but as I made full left lock it came on?  I checked again and this was the case. The back light only worked on full left lock. Very strange. At home time I re-checked the light, this time it didn't work at all?  The lighter evenings help, no lights needed.

At home investigation needed. First off, change the bulb. Still off. Not that then!  Seat off, all wires are intact and connected. Tank off, can't see any problems, the loom is in a kind of armour casing. Get out the multimeter. Numerous checks later I've found that the earth wire is green and the wire that carries power to the back light is brown with a white trace. There is no power in the wire? strange. Headlamp off, trace the power feed from the switch into the loom, all is good. The problem must be in the armour casing. I unwrapped the ends and cut open the armour casing carefully with scissors. Here I found that the wire concerned had disconnected from the loom.

Now there are 3 wires that come from the front end which join together with the rear wire with some kind of brass looking joiner. This is then wrapped in insulating tape. I cut out the joiner and used a new connector. I soldered the wire, strangely the solder didn't take to well to the wire, but good enough to hold them all together in the new joiner. Re-wrapped in insulating tape, and replaced into the loom. The new joiner has made the cable about 1.5cm longer, this may help.

Broken Wire


Broken Wire

15th May 2008 I got a top box off eBay. £35 delivered, quite reasonable, universal fitting.

It looks ok and with it's 41 litre capacity there is more than enough room for my crash hat.

Huoniao HN125-8 With Top Box

Friday 23rd May. After some thought & an interesting email from Elvgren I decided to change the chain. I've been adjusting it about every 400 miles and a lot of slack has been taken out. My local bike shop said it's a '428' type, which it is and has 116 links (check your own to be sure). They kindly ordered one for me @ £18.50 . This I fitted. It is shiny silver metal, not black like the original, even better.

Chain Comparison

So after a massive 3600Km (2237 miles) the original chain had stretched 2 full links !! that is quite a stretch.

Saturday 7th June. Cleaning my Huoniao again, I noticed that one of the exhaust studs were broken. What to do? First off I sent an email to LS Imports to let them know that parts are required and sent them a picture so they can see.

Broken Stud

What to do with it? Parts will be at minimum a couple of days and I cant leave it as it is. Luckily my brother, who also has a Chinese bike has a spare nut so this is not an issue. I needed to extract the stud to find out what the inner thread was. After some manipulation, out it came. I measured the thread at a standard M6 thread. Both ends are the same. Time to make some studs. I went down to my local car accessory shop and bought some studding. Removing the lower stud to get the length I produced two studs in about 2 minutes fairly easily. I fitted them in and locked them off with a nut and refitted the exhaust. Now the other side don't look too good, so I'll be changing those as soon as I can.

New Studs


 Studding Pack

Strangely the same stud sheared again on 20th June, very strange.... I made a new one and borrowed another nut from my brother. This new breakage of the new stud got me thinking, so I went on the internet and searched for the properties of 8.8 steel fasteners. I found that, although 8.8 steel has good torsional strength, it is actually quite brittle. I searched for an alternative. Stainless steel is softer being an alloy compound, which in turn, allows for a greater stretch during the heating and cooling process. This also means that you can easily snap it if you over tighten. After a little more searching I decided on A2 grade stainless steel. This seemed to fit the requirements. I searched the net for a supplier, only to find a good source on eBay at Stainless Bolts. I made my order and quickly received the parts. Shortly after they arrived I had made the new parts and had fitted them. They are still in position on 29th July. Looks like problem solved.

LS Imports.... After three emails a week and endless ringing on both the mobile and land line number I have finally given up. I assume that there is no warranty for my Huoniao from these people. Trading standards have told me to write to them, which I will. But the support I have received from them has been poor at best and now is non existent. They are responsible for the warranty and are legally bound by English law to support these vehicles which they sell.

I've had a bulb blow in the speedo. That's fine in the daytime, but at night you have to drive on the rev counter. So, to change the bulb. First to release it. The big 14mm nut (green arrow) to release it from the bike & the speedo drive (yellow arrow) to be able to move it.

 Speedo Nuts

Then you can turn it up-side-down to see the two 10mm nuts. Once these are removed you can 'pull' the bottom plate away from the body leaving behind the rubber sealing thing, exposing the underside of the speedo. Now you can see the bulb carrier (orange arrow). This is a rubbery thing, similar to the one in the headlamp. It's quite tight, but once it starts moving it comes out easily.
 Speedo Underside

Bulb Carrier

28th September 2008

I have fitted new tyres to my HN125-8. After quite a scary moment in the wet a couple of weeks ago and a lot of thought I decided that my health is worth the cost.

I done a bit of searching on the internet and found lots of variation of tyre in the sizes fitted. One site had a free-phone number. I phoned the number and they put me through to my local depot, which was 'National Tyres' in Lincoln. I explained that I had found much variation on the size of tyre and needed some help in deciding which were most suitable. They said to bring my bike along so that they could check over the details with me. This I did.

The tyres are 'Radial' and 'Tubeless' which makes them special. There are 'cross ply tubed-type'  tyres available, which are much cheaper. Alas, these are incompatible with the rim, so special tyres it is. Again there is a choice on quality, brand and price. I have bought the cheapest available. 'Metzeler' branded, they are a subsidiary of the 'Pirelli' brand . Very good tyres I'm told, we will have to wait and see when it rains. The wait probably wont be too long.

On the front is a ME22 3.25 x 18
On the rear is a ME77 Perfect 110/90 x 16

Fitted price was £109 inc VAT.

Rear Tyre

Front Tyre

24th October 2008

The news is good ... the new tyres are definitely worth the money. Over the past 2 weeks I have had 4 mornings where the road has been wet. There appears to be no noticeable difference to the grip level in the wet compared to the dry. I have yet to try in a heavy downpour, but this is likely, sooner rather than later. Also the 'rear wheel steering effect' which I have read about and experienced seems to have disappeared. Overall the ride seems (personal opinion) to be 'softer', possibly caused by the softer rubber.












16 February 2009

I have had the need to go deep into the wiring of my Huoniao & I found that one of the wiring diagrams in my CG125 Haynes manual very similar. Now they aren't identical but very close & good to use as a reference point. Here is a link to download >> CLICK <<

I have also added to my website the 'official' wiring diagram which was kindly supplied by Davers from the Huoniao Owners Club >> Here <<

There is also a version which someone has kindly added some colour to from Huoniao Owners Forum >> Here << & >> Here <<

I've also found amongst the bike stuff on my hard disk, a parts listing, which can be downloaded >> Here << This also gives a fairly good indication to how it all fits together.

If you've got any questions, just fill in the 'contact '  page & I'll get back to you as quickly as I can.

13th June 2009

I've had a small oil leak for some time. It is intermittent, and tends only to occur when there are sustained high revs. This picture shows where the oil passes on the outside casing. Strangely, the oil sump is on the other side. I have mopped up the oil on several occasions but this time I have made sure I am able to check to find the leak.

 Leaking Oil

After 20 – 25 miles there is enough oil outside to trace it back. It looks like it is coming out from the starter motor. On removing this I find a 'O' ring seal. Inspection of the seal shows that it is twisted making the lower part slightly thinner than the rest. Off to my local car accessory shop to get a replacement. The box where the new seal came from says it is a 'R19' size, whatever that means, and is slightly smaller than the original, but fatter. I popped it on and reinserted the starter motor. All seems good. No leaks so far 5 days on. I have been out on a 20 mile high speed run too.

Starter 'o' ring

Oily Residue

 New & Old 'o' rings
Saturday 11th July, The leak persists, but far less now. I've made modification to the crank case breather system partly forced by the change of air filter. Without the air filter box there is nowhere to fit this breather pipe to.

Modified Breather

What I've used is some hot water pipe for a caravan with a 'Y' connector in it. The lower part of the 'Y' has a piece of sponge stuffed in it to resist oil flow while allowing a small amount to pass. I also used a 'restrictor' in the upper pipe (near to the air filter) as the original air box has half of the hole blocked off. The plastic number plate nut I used for this is now removed for free breathing.

Modified Breather

See that only half the hole is exposed in the air filter box.

Breather Connector

The air box cut away, showing the metal gauze where the breather pipes attach.

Cutaway Air Cleaner Assembly

And this previous week I have been lucky enough to have the flasher relay stop working. At first it flickered when the bulb was on. A quick flick on the switch cured this, but it became more frequent until it finally stopped. I managed to get a new one next day from 'LLEXETER' £25 odd, delivered . That's quite expensive for a little relay. I bet I could have got an old beetle one or something like for half that price if I'd looked around.

Flasher Relay

Flasher Relay

HN125-8 Flasher Relay Position

As you can see they are quite different. I swapped over the rubber mount to make it face the right way & it works a treat.

The Clutch.....

Now, I believe that the semi synthetic oil makes the clutch slip when it is cold, so I changed it. I ordered the EBC clutch & stronger springs from ebay. They turned up promptly. I disassembled the engine case after draining the oil. I needed to remove the clutch cable,  the rev counter cable and the kick start leaver to gain access. Inside can be found the oil filter. This is a centrifugal affair and has no element.

Clutch unit

The oil filter needs to be removed to gain access to the clutch. The clutch housing does not pass the oil filter and can't be changed without the oil filter removed. Inside the oil filter is a nut which is in a kind of tube. It is difficult to see and reach but it is a special nut which requires a special socket. My Haines manual says it is possible to manufacture this, but I had little success. I also got one of these from ebay for about £10 (worth the wait !)

Special Oil Filter Socket

Inside the oil filter

Special Nut Inside Oil Filter

Special Nut & Washer

It's quite straight forward to change, but you'll need to stop the engine from turning to undo the nuts. Again my Haines manual suggests using the rear brake while in gear and again I found this unsuccessful. I wedged a large screwdriver in the gears, this did eventually break so I used a bigger screwdriver. I cleaned the oil filter while I had it out, finding brake cleaner quite suitable. I took out the plates and inserted the new ones, there are 5, and popped it all back together and all seems fine. I also took the opportunity to replace the air filter. I got a nice, angled, blue foam filter from XIAN RACING (no longer trading).   It's a little big , but I went a little tighter with the jubilee clip a it fitted a treat.












09 May 2010

Finally an update

Not much use over the winter period due to my new job providing a van. No commuting for me.

All has been well, other than the clutch slip & a number of dash bulbs failing. I've ordered some LED type bulbs as replacement from the eBay, but these have yet to arrive. I've now changed the front sprocket to a 16 tooth unit. I did this about two weeks ago when I replaced the chain. The first replacement chain has covered some 10,000 odd Kilometres & was OK really, but as I was putting on the new sprocket I thought it best to do the chain too. It has made quite a difference to the overall performance of the bike. Not an increase in speed as the 11 or so horse power stops me going much over 65MPH. The engine revs lower now & the bike feels more manageable with the different gear ratio. Sort of more grown up.

The clutch slip is quite an oddity. When the engine is cold and the weather is cold, it slips like it's missing until the engine gains some temperature. When it was really cold during the winter it actually slipped in 5th after more than 3 miles of travelling. It also tends to be a little snatchy when it is hot. This is a rather odd problem & is going to be difficult to find because now the weather has warmed up somewhat, clutch slip is almost non existent when the engine is cold. Confused I am. I have some time off in the near future. This may give me enough time to have a good look into this strange problem.

The Chinese Bike Forum has ceased. Luckily a new forum, 'Huoniao-Owners' has began life on the net & I have joined. I've found some interesting info & bought myself some ACF-50 which is kind of like a sticky WD40 which dries. This I've sprayed onto the frame to help prevent corrosion and prolong the life of my Huoniao. I also bought some alloy wheel cleaner from Halfords which is super at getting the crap off the wheels & has brought them up like new.


Wheel Cleaner

18th May 2010

My bulbs have arrived from Hong Kong . Time to get them in. Firstly the central bezel is a bugger to get off. The screws are exposed at the bottom end, collecting all manner of road grime, rain & flies etc. I managed to damage the head so badly that I had to drill it out, but not before breaking the plastic housing . The screws appear to be M5 in size, which is great, 'cos my local hardware store had loads in stock. A little bit of time & some 'Araldite Rapid' later the housing was rebuilt.

O M G !! Broken Casing

Glued Casing

Knackered & New Screw

L.E.D. Dash Bulbs

Dash Panel Bulbs in Holder

I also ordered a LED stop & tail bulb as I seem to eat through the standard type. Theory  is that if there is no filament it can't break . It is a direct replacement. There are lots of these types of bulb on eBay. Be sure to check you are getting a white one because this also lights up the number plate.

L.E.D. Staop & Tail Bulb

20th May 2010

The updates are coming thick & fast now .

Today I went to Coventry. That's a trek. Nearly 80 miles each way. That took about 100 minutes ( 1 & a half hours ). I'm sure that the seat wasn't designed to be sat in for that long. Anyway, yesterday I changed the oil for some Halfords cheap ( or not so cheap £8.99 a litre ) 10w40 semi synthetic motorcycle oil. Now this is a little early as I change the oil generally @ 3000KM intervals, but this one is at slightly under 2000KM. With the motorway work & sustained high revs I expected, as usual to see oil running down the left side of the engine casing, but..........  this didn't happen. There are only two possible reasons for this.

1. The oil is much thicker than the Putoline equivalent & can't get out.

2. The bigger front sprocket kept the revs low enough to stop the leak.

Or maybe it's a mixture of the two. Who knows, but the oil leak seems to have rectified itself without much intervention from me. I also gave the clutch cable a oil & tweak at the bars end which seems to have made all the difference to the gear changes and neutral can now be found really easily. I think that from now on I'll change the oil @ 2000KM & buy the Halfords oil in 5Lt container @ £23. Seems to make more sense to get it in the larger container.

26th May 2010

Since putting in the bulbs I've had them flickering, going off until banged, going off & staying off. The gear selection number works when it likes & the starter doesn't.

Off with headlamp. Then the seat & then the tank. Another go into the loom. Now I know these bike are made to a budget, but the wiring is poor. I bought some 3A & 5A 12V wire to replace the existing stuff & both are thicker then the original, which is like hair & mostly a dark brown colour, not copper & has a whiteish powder on it, inside the insulator. Also it doesn't solder very well, mainly because of this powder.

The bulk of the problems have arisen because of me moving the wires in the first place & these dodgy multi-wire connections which are scattered throughout the loom.

The starter. This didn't operate because the wire from the side stand switch plug (under the seat) to the starter solenoid had decided not to conduct electricity. I have power into the plug, through the bridge I fitted & more than 2 inches towards the starter solenoid, but no power at the starter solenoid. Strangely there is another (unused) plug under the seat which carries this very same wire, so I tapped off that as it is working.

The gear selector has been troublesome because of a broken wire behind the headlamp & the flasher tell-tale was inoperative because of a broken multi connector under the tank. All of these now work after many hours with my multi-meter & lots of new cable runs.

I have replaced the multi connectors with a computer part from Maplin. I have re-fed the single wire down to the back & the new fitting I've made resides inside the headlamp. I soldered the 4 wires to the long side of the plug & bridged out the short side. Then I put 10mm heat-shrink tubing over the assembly to protect it.

Computer Part From Maplin

 Original HN125-8 Wiring Connector

My New Connector

Unused Alarm Plug Under Seat HN125-8

1st July 2010

I've decided to change my front brake disc. The original one has given a oscillation ever since new, nothing major but, on anything remotely loose, the front wheel tended to snatch & lock which can be quite unnerving.  I ordered 4 new bolts as well just in case I had to drill out the original ones. £27 including delivery from Llexeter . On to the job. Firstly on to the centre stand. Open the top box & put in a tool box to weigh down the back end. The front axle bolt is 17mm on one end & 19mm on the other. Out with that & extract the wheel, being careful not to damage the pads. The 4 bolts that hold the disc to the wheel are 6mm allen bolts. I have a socket for this as I find allen keys a little flexible & sometimes uncontrollable. The socket wouldn't go in without it's friend Mr hammer, only a small tap got it in. They seemed surprisingly untight, so once turning they came out easily. The disc then just lifts off. I put the old & new together to see if I could see where the warp was. It must be very small because it's not visible, they look identical. The new disc just lays in position & then the new 4 bolts put in. I did these up by feel, tight but not too tight, if you know what I mean. I took out the pads & roughed them up with a bit of 80-grit sand paper, copper greased the edges where they touch & the pin & popped them back in. The wheel slipped back into position, bolt in. I done this up to 60lbs/ft (it's imperial, I know) & I was done.

The pads are now bedded in & braking is completely smooth, almost like a new bike . Just to point out that the brake is next to useless for the first couple of goes & it takes about 20 - 30 proper stops to bring it to near where it was.

Old Brake Disc

New Brake Disc

14th July 2010

I had a strange event the other week, so I thought I 'blog' it.

I was on my way to B&Q. I'd not long left home, about 4 minutes when, I felt a bump to my right heel. I looked down and the kick start lever was missing. I travelled back about 200yds to find it laying in the road. I picked it up & put it in the top box. When I returned home I tried to push it back on. My efforts were in vain, I had to remove the bolt that secures it to get it back over the spindle. I just can't work out how it came off if it wont go back on .. very strange?

23rd August 2010

I have painted my forks. This was prompted by a photo taken & uploaded to the Huoniao-Owners forum . > Link Here < . They were quite scabby & really did need sorting out. I decided on black to be the same as the rest of the bike. Using the same method as 'Johnnyboy', wire wheel on a bench grinder, I set about cleaning them up. After about 45 minutes they were in a paintable condition. I popped on some primer & then the black top coat. Due to work I had to leave them off for a couple of days. Yesterday I popped them back in & they now look new.

Corroded Fork          Corroded Fork

Painted Forks

Forks Re-fitted to HN125-8

28th August 2010

My horn hasn't worked for some time & looking at it, better days it has seen. I popped over to my local eBay shop and searched for a replacement. I stumbled across a nice ( proper ) chrome unit for £6, which I ordered. A couple of days passed & it arrived. It's a little smaller than the original, but does have 116db stamped on it. & it is louder than the original . I was taking the old one off when I noticed that one of the wires wasn't attached to the terminal . Never mind.  I fitted the new one & put on a new terminal & all is well & working again.

Original Horn

New Horn

Old Horn & New Horn

5th September 2010

Finally I have had the opportunity to investigate my persistent, intermittent oil leak. It has been better since I fitted the 16 tooth front sprocket, but of late, it has begun again on a larger scale, I believe. It has been troublesome for around 2 years, leaking lots or hardly any, quite an odd phenomenon. After a careful read of my Haynes manual I found a diagram of the oil system.

Engine Lubrication Circuit

This shows that only 1 oil gallery passes to the left side of the engine, all of the others are contained on the right. My leak is on the left, so this must be feeding it. Time to take the casings off to see if I can locate the exit point. I'd already established on a previous attempt, that the leak was near, or from the starter motor area. Once I'd removed the casings I inspected the gasket. This was all intact, in good order and reusable. I performed a clean up operation. I was bad, oily road grime, ek. Once cleaned inspection could begin. I searched, looking for a crack or split or anywhere that the oil could pass. It all looked in good order, and now cleaned, no trace of where the oil had come from .

Cross referencing the diagram with the disassembled engine I noticed that there was a 'core plug' in the casing, right on the top of the oil gallery, which would normally sit directly under the starter motor. This could be the only place that the oil could escape. It was at a bit of an angle. Probably pressed in badly at manufacture. I didn't fancy interfering with it, so a permanent seal was required. Off to my local car accessory shop. After some deliberation & assistance from the good chap there, we'd decided on 'Chemical Metal' as the most suitable seal.

Plastic Padding - Chemical Metal

I got this home and mixed a little up. Spread it on and in 10 minutes........ sealed. Put all the casings back and so far so good. Not a seep at all from it. Fingers crossed I not be losing oil any more .

Position Of Casing Core Plug

 Chemical Metal Covering Core Plug

13th September 2010

While on the Huoniao-Owners Forum 'Bushman' has told of his push bike speedo. This seems like a good idea as the factory fitted speedo waves about a bit which makes it hard to read. Off to eBay to have a search. I came across this unit which was delivered for £7. It reads up to 150 MPH/KPH , whichever it is set to. A bargain !!

It arrived promptly. I read through the instructions & set it up.

Bike Speedo

Now I only have one issue with it. This is that the sensor is designed to fit on the left fork & the cable isn't long enough to put the unit where I wanted it on the right. So I fitted the unit on the left, kind of under the rev counter.

Speedo Fitted In Position

The magnet that comes with the kit is mounted in a plastic frame to enable attachment to spokes. This is not ideal, so back to eBay where I ordered 10 (minimum quantity) small high performance magnets which were £2.50 delivered. I used the chemical metal I'd bought to seal my oil leak to secure it to the wheel hub. Ten minutes to set & the job was done. Now I'll have an accurate measure of speed.

Sensor & Wire Feed

During October I found a fuel leak. A thorough check lead me to the tank outlet. The weld where the outlet is attached to the tank was leaking. Not an easy repair. I decided to use 'Chemical Metal' again to seal this up. After several attempts there was still a leak.

Tank Leaking At Outlet

I ordered a new tank. I chose the latest type because I think that the styling is more suited to this bike. On 3rd November I fitted the new tank.

New Tank Fitted

Now repaired, I made my planned journey to London on 4th November. As expected I had a incident free journey other than the usual problems that motorway journeys have on a bike of this size. The lack of power a the top end is overcome by planning manoeuvres early and overtaking where there is a downhill stretch. The day as a whole was a success & mission accomplished. I stopped off at my Dads in Harlow on the way back making the total mileage for the day around 200Miles. I left Harlow about 4pm the following day to return home. After a short fuel stop I was on my way. About 25Miles from home I heard a familiar jingling sound. A shared exhaust stud, nothing can be done in the dark, just continue home and look at it later. On arrival home I put the bike in the garage to look at it in the morning when I found this.

Broken Cylinder Head

Broken Cylinder Head

A major setback as the MOT is due. This is partly my fault as I haven't replaced the bent right exhaust. It was hit on the motorway by something black that came over the barrier back in the summer 2009.  I was in luck, 'dnmouse' on the Huoniao-Owners Forum had a used head which he kindly gave to me. I found it impossible to get any seal with my right exhaust on this good head so I ground down a can top to fit in the port, exhaust sealed it in & then fitted the exhaust to hold it down, which works quite well.

2 HN125-8 Cylinder Heads

I took MY HN125 to have it's pre-MOT where they suggested that to pass I'd need a new rear tyre.

New Michelin Tyre

After having this fitted I took it in for it's MOT where it passed with flying colours.












6th February 2011

After my exciting times with the head, exhaust & mot, I decided that a more permanent remedy was required. I would definitely require a RH exhaust Which is priced @ £86.21 + delivery on CMPO. Amongst the problems I haven't resolved is the crank case pressure. This I can only presume is caused by exhaust gas passing the piston into the sump, not so good. £53.11 cylinder, £12.95 Piston & £10 for the rings, totaling just over £162 without delivery. Off to eBay to see what can be found.

I searched through & I found 150cc head with valves fitted & 150cc cylinder complete with piston & rings for £105 + delivery. I then ordered a standard CG125 exhaust (2004 onwards) which was £70 delivered with gasket, totaling £187. This must be the bargain of the year. At my next day off I started the mammoth task to change all the parts. I recommend 2 boxes. Old bits & new bits, so that you know where everything is. I studied my CG125 Haynes manual so that I had a good idea of sequence & then began. It's all quite easy really, although initially quite tight for space at the top.

Old exhausts off first, then the carb & manifold. Off with the rocker cover & then the rockers complete on mounting. Be careful not to drop the push rods. 4 largish nuts that secure the head & the smaller 1 on the outside. Lift off head. 2 smaller bolts that secure the cylinder to the crank case & lift off the cylinder. Yes it's that easy. Next the hard bit. Getting the gasket off from the crank case is a pig. This took more time than taking the engine to bits, but, start as you mean to go on & get fully prepared before re-assembly. It's probably a good idea to put a rag or something around the con rod to stop debris getting in the sump while removing the gasket.

Once ready, swop over the valve gear in the cylinder. Assemble the piston & rings. Remove the circlip from old gudgeon pin to remove the old piston & fit the new one. I generously oiled the new bore before I put it over the new piston. It went down fairly easily, just taking care that the rings went in the right place. Once down 2 bolts to hold it, add head gasket followed by the head which when bolted down, holds the whole thing together. Push rods in (careful not to drop them in the sump) followed by the rockers. Find TDC & adjust tappets. Rocker cover on. Manifold & carb on & now to the exhaust.

This bit is the tricky bit. The exhaust was never intended for this bike & some adjustments are needed to get it on. Firstly there is only 1 & it runs down the right hand side. It is very tight on the front down tube, but does go in without fouling. A bracket is needed to attach it at the rear, I made this from a piece of shelf bracket from B&Q which cost £1.50. The centre stand needs to come off. This ideally needs to be done before the exhaust is fitted, for ease of access. I did mine after the exhaust & it was a pig. I ended up cutting the end of the stand pin off with a grinder because it was so corroded, but this worked & I now have a knackered centre stand. Strike her up & tighten the exhaust down & job done. Just one point that I found. Where the new gaskets are thicker than the old, the top engine mounting hanger is about 2mm too low. I used my dremmel to grind out the hole a little in the frame hanger to allow the bolt to pass.

I've only done 8 miles so far but things are looking up. Firstly I don't think it has ever been so quiet although the carb still roars as the throttle is eased open. Secondly, I'm not happy that the exhaust is so close to the rev counter cable & the clutch cable, some mod needed to shield these a little I think. Now I need a larger main jet & some new sprocketry & chain to suit & I'll be all done.

HN150-8 Assembled

The upturned barrels.

 The upturned barrels.

Old piston in position.

Old Piston On Con Rod

New barrel & piston installed.

New Barrel & Piston In Position

The exhaust bracket I made & it's fitted position.

My Home Made Bracket

My Bracket Supporting The Exhaust
My Bracket Supporting The Exhaust

Old & new piston.

Old Piston & New Piston

Piston side view, strangely showing a nice clean section at the top of the old piston. Does this show a fault, where the piston may have been touching the barrel ??

Side View Of Both Pistons

The extra power that you get from the 150cc upgrade makes the gears quite short. To try to stop the engine over revving I've changed the sprocket ratios. The bike shipped with 15 tooth front & 42 tooth rear, ratio of 2.80:1. The new sprockets, 17 front & 38 rear give ratio of 2.24:1 which is much more relaxed. Sprocket ratio guide here . With the wheel off it's quite straight forward. The 4 nuts hold the pins to the back of the sprocket & the circlip holds the sprocket to the wheel.


Front Sprocket

17 Tooth Front Sprocket

Rear Sprocket

38 Tooth Rear Sprocket



Hub with sprocket removed

Pins In Hub

New sprocket on

New Sprocket Fitted to Hub

Old & new sprocket size comparison.

Old & new sprocket size comparison

29th May 2011


The front metal mudguard has been showing signs of fatigue for some time. Cracks have appeared where the mounts from the forks join to the guard. I have checked to see what can be done to resolve this & have found that the 'Lexmoto Arizona' carries the same front setup, forks, wheel, brakes, etc.


With this information I have ordered the front mud guard for the 'Lexmoto Arizona' which is made of plastic. No more rust then. I've put it on & it looks fine. There are 2 holes less than there are on the original, but these were soon drilled & all is good.

Arizona Plastic Front Mud Guard Fitted

28th November 2011


A quick update, but not much to say. Just that I changed job back in May & have been back in the saddle for a short daily commute which has been absolutely problem free. These bikes are cracking machines.


14th December 2011


My insurance is due. Rampdale sent the reminder for £118, as expected. On the 'Huoniao Owners Forum', there are some threads on the subject of insurance, which I'd browsed. One thread contained a link to 'NetPig.co.uk', who I'd never heard of. I tried out the website, which is easy to navigate & successfully managed to get a quote which was actually for a 'Lexmoto Vixen' as Huoniao isn't listed. I phoned NetPig to confirm the details I had submitted & the duly changed the bike to a Huoniao HN125-8 to make it correct. The new premium is £94, which gives me the same cover, but also includes road side assistance, which is nice as it's free. So, a change of broker & also the new cover is now provided by AXA instead of Equity Red Star.


18th December 2011


The recent cold weather seems to have taken its toll on my aging battery & now it is finally no longer able to turn the engine. I've received my replacement '12N9-4B-1' from CMPO via eBay @ £23 delivered which is now fitted & working normally again.












6th May 2012


I've had no news to report until after recently taking some photos of my bike I noticed that the rear arm was quite rusty. I thought that I'd clean it up on my wire brush on the bench grinder. I disassembled the rear end of my HN125-8 & removed the arm. All was well & the rust was coming off a treat when I noticed a small depression. I got out my large screwdriver & gave it a bang, which in turm produced a hole. After a short go with the angle grinder I had found more than I'd bargained for.

Rusty Rear Swing Arm

Hole Showing After Rust Removal

After some time & some very unskilled welding, I had repaired the arm. I painted it with 'Red Hammerite Smooth' so that I can see if it needs any further attention. It seems that this part of the arm is particularly vulnerable due to its positioning, from road salt & other debris. The metal could also be a little thicker so that it may be a bit more resistant. Maybe a clip on plastic mud guard may help too.

Painted Red Swing Arm

Painted Red Swing Arm

While I'd immobilised the bike I also took off the front engine mount, which was also rather rusty & gave it a good clean on the wire brush & a paint too.






Updates will follow when I have them..............

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